If you haul, tow, or just want your heavy-duty Ram to sit right, add-a-leaf kits are the quiet workhorses of the suspension world. Instead of big blocks or a full spring swap, they slip into your rear leaf pack, add arch, and bring back control. SkyJacker’s Softride line was built for that sweet spot: noticeable lift and better load handling, without beating you up on broken pavement.
SkyJacker RAM 2500 and 3500 owners get several options depending on model year and how much lift they want. The company targets leaf-spring generations with parts that include the hardware you actually need, so you’re not hunting for odds and ends mid-install.
What the Softride Add-A-Leaf does
An add-a-leaf increases the arch and effective spring rate of your rear pack. The result: less squat with a trailer or bed load, a touch more ride height, and tighter control over whoop-de-doos and expansion joints. Compared with lift blocks, you’ll usually see less axle wrap and wheel hop because you’re stiffening the pack itself rather than spacing the axle down.
Ride feel changes, but it shouldn’t turn harsh if you choose the right kit for your setup. Softride parts are built to keep compliance, so empty-bed driving remains livable. Just remember, more spring rate helps support weight; it doesn’t change your truck’s rated payload or towing limits.
One more note on fitment: these kits cover the leaf-spring years. From 2014 onward, the Ram 2500 moved to rear coils from the factory, while the 3500 stayed on leafs. If you’re in that newer 2500 crowd, you’ll be looking at coil springs, spacers, or airbags instead.

Model-by-model: fitment and lift heights
For 2003–2012 RAM 2500 and RAM 3500 trucks, SkyJacker’s R332 Softride Add-A-Leaf delivers about 2 inches of rear lift. It’s a rear-position kit and ships with tie bolts (center pins) to complete the install. This is the straightforward pick if you want a modest lift with a firmer, more controlled tail under load.
For earlier 4WD trucks, the DR76S is aimed at 1994–2002 RAM 2500. It’s designed to work when the factory rear block is removed, netting roughly 1 to 1.5 inches of lift. That makes it a smart choice if you’re chasing a mild rake adjustment or matching a small front-leveling setup without over-lifting the rear. The DR76S is tuned to play nicely with existing 1–1.5 inch lift configurations.
Need a bigger jump? The DR74S covers 1994–2001 RAM 2500 4WD and adds a substantial 4 inches of rear height over stock. It’s also a solid replacement for tired factory packs, with rubber bushings and steel sleeves included to refresh key wear points during installation.
All three are built from quality materials and aimed at keeping ride quality intact while improving rear-end stability. SkyJacker’s Softride approach focuses on balancing lift with real-world drivability—handy if your truck doubles as a commuter during the week and a tow rig on weekends.
Planning the install? Measure twice. Rear lift changes geometry in ways you should account for:
- Shocks: Make sure extended and compressed lengths suit the new ride height. Old shocks that are too short will top out and ride poorly.
- U-bolts: Replace them. They’re torque-to-yield items; reusing old ones risks clamp load loss.
- Driveline: Check pinion angle and watch for vibrations. Depending on lift, shims may be needed.
- Brake lines and ABS wires: With the axle hanging, verify slack at full droop.
- Alignment: Rear lifts don’t affect front toe/camber, but confirm thrust angle and steering wheel centering after any suspension work.
Choosing the right kit comes down to how you use the truck. If you tow occasionally and want to erase sag without overshooting height, the DR76S (block removed) or the R332 are the calmer options. If you’re carrying a slide-in camper or need to match a taller front lift, the DR74S’s 4-inch rise makes more sense. For frequent heavy loads, consider pairing an add-a-leaf with longer shocks and helper solutions like airbags for fine-tuning—spring rate handles baseline support; air lets you adjust for trip-to-trip changes.
Installation is a driveway job for experienced DIYers with jack stands, a torque wrench, and patience, but rusted hardware can turn it into a weekend. Soak leaf-pack nuts and U-bolts days ahead, support the axle securely, and follow torque specs. Re-torque U-bolts after the first few hundred miles; leaf packs settle.
Before you buy, match your exact year, drivetrain, and suspension type. These kits target specific RAM generations for a reason, and mixing parts across years can create fit issues. If you’re close to a model-year changeover, confirm axle, pack width, and hardware style to avoid surprises. For warranty terms and load limits, check the manufacturer’s documentation or your retailer’s product page before you wrench.